16 Days in Cambodia

Day 1: June 29th, Sunday the Arrival

So I got here on Sunday June 29 after my flight was delayed for about two hours due to technical complications from the first Dragonair flight that I was on. It was more annoying that they waited so long to tell us what the problem was in the first place. Really, in the end I was glad that they had the decency to tell us that there was a problem and that they had the sense to switch planes. So we got off that plane and got on another one. I did worry that my luggage might have been lost or misplaced due to the flight changes but all was well. All I have to say is that the Hong Kong Airport is pretty confusing. The Air Canada flight that got me there was fine but they didn’t have an off-loading thing waiting for us so we had to exit onto the tarmac and get on buses. Because of this, we arrived at a different terminal and I had a hell of a time getting to my connecting one. It all worked out for the best and after more than 20 hours in transit, 17 of those on planes, I finally arrived at my destination.

It was with some trepidation and exhaustion that I managed to navigate my way through the Phnom Penh International Airport to find all of my luggage and finally my relatives. After breezing through the airport authorities and customs, I followed a long corridor to the waiting/receiving area of the airport. There was a huge wall of people waiting behind a fence/gate thing, some of whom were holding signs with names written on it. I found myself flabbergasted for a moment before a group of people in the middle of the crowd started yelling and cheering at me. It was then that I realized that these were my relatives. They had organized a welcoming party to meet me at the airport. A man that I later recognized as my uncle from the pictures that my mom kept at home motioned me towards the exit gate and I hurried through with my luggage. There, I was greeted by my aunt, who my mother always said was my older twin, her husband, another aunt, my new cousin-in-law, my uncle and his five-year-old son. It was very surreal to see all these people who looked like me and felt that they knew me. I felt awkward, tired, and relieved meeting all these people. My aunt grabbed my hand, smiling, laughing, and just overjoyed. My uncle was beaming and my cousins were shy but happy. It was overwhelming to meet so many people who were so happy to see me, even though I was virtually a stranger to them. That’s family, I suppose, and now I was about to meet all of them.

My cousin had rented a car to pick me up and we all piled into a white Toyota Corolla. I never realized that so many people could fit into such a small car. From there, it was a whirlwind ride through Phnom Penh, the capitol city, towards my cousin’s house. Throughout the ride, there were joyful discussions about how worried everyone was when they heard that my flight was delayed and how overjoyed they all were to see me. Into the midst of this, a phone rang and my uncle picked up after realizing that it was my mom. I had called her to let her know that I had reached the Hong Kong airport and hadn’t spoken to her since. She had no idea that my flight was delayed at all. As it turns out, that was a good thing. She was already giving orders and instructions to everyone about how they should take care of me and what I was allowed to do and not do. It was as if she had forgotten that I was twenty-two years old. I don’t mind because I know that she cares. She spoke to us on the way to the house as I stared wide-eyed at the scenery around me. It was all like a dream. I couldn’t believe that I had finally reached Cambodia, especially on my own. The city passed by in a dream-like, like filled kaleidoscope. After driving who knew how long, we finally reached my cousin’s corner house in Phnom Penh where the road outside was filled with motorcycles and people, all of whom I learned were related to me in some way. Quickly, I brushed up on my Khmer since it was going to be the language that I would be speaking in for 99% of the time. I was inundated by relatives, but in a good way. I didn’t realize that I had so much family and that they would all be happy to see me. In the midst of “wow, you’re so big!” there were comments such as “yes, she looks like so-and-so,” and “oh she has so-and-so’s nose,” and “she may be big but that’s normal for foreigners and she’s pretty, too.” Needless to say, I was quite satisfied by that last comment. It was nice to see everyone and I definitely felt secure. It was a long night talking and getting to know people. I knew that some of my relatives were apprehensive and were unsure about me. I guess they were afraid that I would be snobby or discriminatory about everything. I arrived with the attitude of this is a foreign, third-world country and I should be prepared to a certain level of discomfort. That attitude did me well because I was able to accept the conditions that I met with. My cousin had prepared a room for me and her house had modern conveniences such as a washroom, shower, electricity, and other amenities. I did not want for anything. It may not have been a five-star resort but I wasn’t looking for that. As the night wound down, I took a shower and prepared for bed. I fell into sleep exhausted but happy.


Day 2: June 30th, Monday the Country

I awoke to the sounds of my uncle calling, “here’s your mother on the phone!” It was my mother again. I have no idea how many times she had called and she has continued to call frequently since. This particular morning we were getting ready to leave for the country. It was around 6:00am when I woke up and we were all getting ready to leave for the country. My cousin had rented another car and we proceeded to eat breakfast in preparation for a long day. The breakfast was really good since it was chicken and rice. For some reason, food tastes really good here. We ate and piled into the car. Again, it was very shocking to see that eight people could fit into a Toyota Camry. We left for the country, stopping at shops and markets along the way to pick up food. My little cousin, Haeng, came along for the ride. Throughout the day, we got to know each other quite a bit and I realized that he was one of the most precocious, curious, well-spoken, and bratty kid that I have ever met. He was always sassy, quick, clever, selfish, and loud. And he was only 5 years old. Lord knows how he’ll be when he finally reached his teenage years. I already feel for his mother. Haeng had already decided that he liked me since I came with gifts of candy and toys. This day, he decided that my digital camera was the greatest invention ever and grabbed at it as often as he could. I have to say that for a 5 year old, he could take some pretty interesting and candid pictures.

Arriving in the country, at my dad’s village, I was greeted with the site of wood and bamboo stilt houses, children running barefoot and ill-dressed, cows, chickens, dogs, and other signs of country life. We had passed roads lined with palm trees and farmland, rice paddies and farmers. It was pretty surreal. I was soon introduced to a multitude of family; aunts, uncles, cousins, nieces, and nephews. They all came out to see the curiosity that was me. It was quite a surprise and a welcome one to discover that all of these people were there to see me and wanted to get to know me. I met my dad’s first wife and it was clear why the family loved her and continues to love her still. She was a quiet, very nice woman who had tears in her eyes when she met me. I took pictures of all of the children, aunts, uncles, and other relatives who came to greet me. My mother made me promise. After all, she did decide to call every couple of hours that day and every day since.

We wandered throughout the village and to the local temple where my uncle, my dad’s oldest brother, was buried. We lit incense and said prayers for the dead and I continued to take pictures of all of the children who tagged along. We crossed through the village, in order for me to get some idea of what it was like for my dad growing up in the area. I was reminded by all my relatives that when my father was young and growing up in the area, things were much harsher and people were not as prosperous as they are today. I found it amusing that when we sat down to eat lunch, my aunt called one of my cousins over and said that we wanted some coconut juice. He proceeded to go outside, grabbed a long pole, and poked at some coconuts in the trees until they fell to the ground. Only in Cambodia can you get fresh grown coconuts from outside of your window.

From there, we continued through the district in order for me to meet some extended family and discover all the things that made this particular village exceptional. For Cambodian standards, my dad’s family is doing pretty well. No one is starving and everyone is happy and healthy for the most part. It was nice to see. We ended up at my aunt’s house for the evening because she had a shower and toilet. They were all worried that I wouldn’t be able to handle living in country conditions but I was fine. I quickly adapted and that made things really easy. My cousin had just given birth to a son and I realized, watching my family, that babies were not only considered to be precious, they were adored by everyone. At my cousin’s house in the city, her 5-month-old daughter is passed around throughout the neighborhood. Everyone comes to visit and play with her. Family is precious and children in my family are adored by one and all.


Day 3: July 1st, Tuesday Back in the City, Getting Ready for the Ocean

The next day, I again woke up in the early hours of the morning; 6:00am. The day had started for everyone and it continued to get busier and busier. We had to hurry back to the city because my uncle, who worked for a Korean news company, had work to do. Work in Cambodia often is not as scheduled and rigid as it is in Canada but there are still some deadlines to be observed. So we quickly ate a quick breakfast, changed, and got ready to leave.

I said goodbye to the various relatives who were present and got into the car. We continued throughout the country, taking the longer, more scenic route so I could photograph the rice paddies, cows, farmers, and other signs of country life in Cambodia. We did stop at various relatives homes in order for me to meet them. The countryside in Cambodia varies from province to province and luckily, my dad’s family resides a province that is bountiful and has plenty of food and water so starvation is not such an issue. We continued along and I realized that early mornings were going to be the norm for me. Sleeping in appears to be anything passed 6:30am but then again, many people also go to bed early.

We stopped off at the airport so my uncle could pick up company packages and then continued on our way. Eventually, we arrived back at my cousin’s place and relaxed there the rest of the day. My uncle took off after apologizing for not being able to accompany us to the Coast because he had work to do. I was fine since there were going to be five of us going: me, my cousin, my cousin-in-law, my aunt, and her husband. They were all worried about me and wanted to make sure that there were enough people to accompany me wherever I decided to go.

That evening, my cousins, my uncle, and I all went out for a motorcycle ride through the city. It was so much fun! It was my first time being on a motorcycle and I loved it. We wandered the river area where there were many different cafes, bars, restaurants, monuments, and other sites to see. It was nice and cool that evening and since we were all on motorcycles, it was much easier to get around. The traffic is horrendous here and road rules seem to be haphazardly obeyed at best.

We continued on until everyone decided that they were hungry so we went to a restaurant just outside of the city where they had a live band playing. It was interesting and fun to spend that time getting to know some of my cousins and my cousins’ spouses. It appears that I am the only girl to hang out with all the guys here. But it is fun to hang out with the guys because they’re willing to do more things. We left around 11:00pm so that we could get back and get ready to leave for the Coast the next day.


Day 4: July 2nd, Wednesday the Ocean, Sihanoukville and Kampong Som

The day dawned bright and early as we got ready to set out for the Coast. We were taking the 7:30am bus and had to be at the pick-up area fairly early. Throughout the ride there, I was reminded not to speak English or show that I was anything but a native. Apparently, they charge you more if you’re a foreigner. We got to the pick-up area and I found my uncle waiting to see us off. His friend was with him and he wanted to test out his English with me, which I found difficult because I was told not to speak English. It was fine and after saying goodbye, we left for the four-hour journey to the coast.

We passed through two provinces in order to reach the seaside coastal city. Passing through, I took as many pictures as I could. It was nice to nap along the way but when we reached an important roadside shrine, I was forced to get up and out of the bus. My aunt pointed out that I had to make offerings to the shrine and pray for safe travels since it was not only customary, but was considered to be good luck. I did as I was told and then we quickly got on the bus and on to our journey.

Arriving in Sihanoukville, I quickly glimpsed the ocean since the region was hilly and filled with cliffs. I was definitely excited to be going to the ocean because I have never been in ocean water before. It was glorious! The coast stretched out as white, sandy beaches and the water was warm. As soon as we got there, we headed for the beaches, riding tuk-tuks or carts drawn by motorcycles. These were very common and could carry many people. We arrived at the beach, grabbed a table in the sand that was shaded by large straw umbrellas and dropped our bags off. We ordered some food and had lunch since it was around 1:30pm already and we had last eaten around 6:00am.

After the meal, my cousin looked at me and said, “Come on, let’s swim.” So we got undressed and I ran towards the ocean. In Cambodia, wearing swimsuits like in Canada is considered scandalous so I was reduced to wearing a short dress while swimming. It was much better received than my swimsuit would have been. The water was cool and refreshing since the day was so hot. We swam and joked around with my other cousin, who couldn’t swim. We tried teaching him and convincing him that it was okay but to no avail. He refused the entire time. We had so much fun swimming and I knew that I would be sore that night!

That evening, we found a guesthouse and grabbed two rooms. I stayed in a room with my aunt and uncle while my cousins shared a room since they were both guys. Again, propriety is very much observed. We ate dinner in the restaurant attached to the guesthouse and my cousins and I sat outside talking till late that night. It was nice and relaxing, definitely something that I could get used to.


Day 5: July 3rd, Thursday More of the Ocean and Waterfalls at Kbal Chhay

The next day, we were scheduled to leave at 2:00pm so we decided to wander the city for the morning. We rented a tuk-tuk for the day and headed off on a tour after a quick breakfast. I took lots of pictures of the city and saw just how beautiful it is. It had the makings of a resort town and I know that in a couple of years, the area will probably be unrecognizable.

We journeyed across the city towards the hills where the waterfalls of Kbal Chhay were located. After climbing hills and mountains, we finally reached the waterfalls. I was hesitant to try out the water, mostly because of laziness but my cousin convinced me that it would be fun to swim in the water below the falls and to try out the falls themselves. So we got undressed and headed for the falls. It was so much fun! The down-ward pouring water acted like a massager as it hit my back and neck. We had chosen the smaller set of falls to play in, where the water was crystal clear and cool. We climbed the falls, climbed behind the falls, and played in front of them. We wandered the area and played around for an hour or two. After leaving the falls, we headed back to the beach since we still had plenty of time before having to head out. We decided to get back in the water and this time, my aunt would join us but my cousin-in-law wouldn’t. He had had enough and decided that since he couldn’t swim, the ocean really wasn’t his best friend.

We swam the afternoon, had lunch, and then got ready to leave. The day was long and fun but long. The bus ride was just as long as I had remembered and I slept as much as I could along the way. When we arrived back to the city, we headed to my cousin’s again where I was staying. My cousin-in-law, who is very much in love with his wife and new baby girl, was ecstatic to be back.


Day 6: July 4th, Friday Siem Reap

I woke up bright and early this day and got ready for Siem Reap. The temples and ancient structures were a must-see for me since one of my goals in life has been to see the temples. They’re the pride and joy of Cambodia and I had to see them. We sat around for a while, waiting for everyone else to get ready. My cousin had come bright and early because my uncle told him to and we both sat and waited until he decided that we should go to shopping center close by to kill some time. We head for one of the newer ones, stylized after our shopping malls back home. It reminded me of a larger and better version of DragonCity in Toronto. We wandered the building, got some fruit drinks, got some snacks and did a little bit of shopping. I found designer knock-offs and all sorts of things in the mall. After some time, we decided to head back to my cousin’s in order to get ready for Siem Reap.

There were seven of us and one of my little cousins who were leaving for Siem Reap. We piled on the bus, preparing for the 6 hour journey from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. It was a long bus ride but I took the time to catch up on sleep. We travelled through three provinces before arriving in Siem Reap. We got there around 6:00pm and headed for a guesthouse. I insisted on three rooms so that we could have some space for all of us. Each room had two beds and its own washroom. My relatives were scandalized at the price but I couldn’t help but laugh. My cousin bartered them down to $26 per night for all three rooms so since we were staying for 3 nights, it would cost me $78. There was a balcony and sitting area outside of our rooms so we took advantage of them every evening before setting out again.

That night, we explored the area of Siem Reap called Psa Chaa, or Old Market. There were many restaurants, bars, pubs, and other entertainments, many of which were open twenty-four hours. We ate at a street-side restaurant/vendor and continued our explorations. The night culminated in my cousins, uncle and I sitting on the outdoor patio of the guesthouse and talking. It was nice and calming.

Again, for propriety’s sake, I stayed in a room with my aunt and uncle. And again, I had my own bed. =D


Day 7: July 5th, Saturday Angkor, Prasats, Temples, Climbing Mountains and Karaoke

The next day dawned bright and early as we prepared to wander the temple complexes. There are so many of them and they are huge! Many people doubted that we could see all of them in one day but since we started at 6:00am and continued until around 6:30pm, we managed to see all but one that day.

We started with the famous and majestic Angkor Wat, also known as the smaller temple. The intricate details and grandeur of the structure still remains awe-inspiring as we gazed in wonder at the carvings, bas-reliefs, and sculptures of the temple. We climbed up and down the levels, going everywhere that we were allowed to go and some places that we weren’t. From there, we wandered to the nearby temples and smaller structures associated with Angkor Wat. We wandered in and out, marveling at the intricacies and artistic skills of those long dead who were working with instruments that were so primitive and yet so skillfully handled.

From there, we bargained two tuk-tuk drivers into agreeing to drive us around the whole day in order for us to see all of the temples of the region. We wandered in and out of structures like Angkor Thom, and all of the other complexes. Though close together relatively speaking, they were still very much apart. We climbed up and down temples, wandered through the jungle towards the next and continued throughout the day in much the same way. I lost track of all the temples we saw but according to the map that my cousin obtained, we had wandered them all.

Ta Prohm was absolutely amazing as massive trees were resting upon the walls of the temples. These enormous trees were growing higher and higher above and on top many of the walls and roofs of the structures, with their roots imbedding themselves through the rocks of the structures and into the grounds below. It was amazing to see nature and ancient civilizations clashing in this way. We could not stop marveling at the ingenuity and skill of the long-dead civilization. Their complexities still amaze us today.

We ended the day at Phnom Bakeng, where the temple complex sat on top of a mountain. After climbing the mountain, we had to climb up the steep stairs to the top. The steps were at about a 60 degree angle and jutted out perhaps about 3 inches. It was a haphazard climb but there were lots of people there, many of whom were already at the top. We climbed up to the very top of the main structure, after passing many of its sub-levels until we could see the region stretched out in the distance. Through the trees, we could see Angkor Wat and some of the Prasats in the area. We had climbed up to watch the sunset and realized that we were not the only ones who had that idea. Of course, going up the mountain could be down on elephant-back as well but we decided that using our own legs would be more challenging and impressive. The view was amazing from the top and we sat to wait for the sunset. It was glorious!

By this time, it was around 6:30pm and getting dark fast. We left and followed the crowd down the mountain. We were to meet up with my uncle, who was arriving that night from Phnom Penh with his wife and kids. His two sons are both menaces! My uncle met up with us at the guesthouse and we relaxed a bit before getting ready again. My aunt, uncle, cousins, and my other uncle got ready to go out for dinner while my other aunts stayed in and rested. They were exhausted from a long day of wandering and since all of them were around my father’s age or much older, it was amazing that they held up that long.

After getting back from dinner, we decided to wait until my little cousins fell asleep before heading out. My cousin, aunt, and both my uncles were taking me out that night. We ended up wandering to two clubs, having a couple of drinks, then gave up and went to a karaoke bar. We got a private room and hung out till about 4:00am drinking, talking, singing, and just having fun. We finally got back to the guesthouse, after getting a tad lost, and had about an hour to two hours sleep before heading out again.


Day 8: July 6th, Sunday Phnom Kulen, Sacred Places and Cultural Centers

This day we decided that we were going to rent a twelve-seat van and head to the top of a sacred mountain. We were all told not to say anything negative because it could all come true. The mountain was full of spirits, shrines, and temples. After braving an hour’s ride through mountainous terrain, we took the steep climb up the mountain before arriving at the top. The air was cool and refreshing from the stifling heat of the city. We lit incense and prayed for good luck, good health, and happiness for everyone in the family. Then, following a young boy who acted as our tour guide, we travelled the mountain and explored the nooks and crannies of the Phnom Kulen.

There was a massive carving of the resting Buddha at the top of one of the rock structures. It was probably about twenty feet long and seven or eight feet high. There were the natural hollows and bowls carved into the rock by the elements, the shrines set up along the pathways, and the sacred places among the rocks. We wandered it all and always prayed for good things for the family. After wandering for hours, we decided that it was time for lunch and sat down to eat with everyone in the family.

After, we decided to head for the local waterfalls, where many people often chose to take a dip. My little cousin got undressed until he was stark naked (which I had to laugh at) and tentatively stepped into the water. The water was clear and shallow, rushing through the rocks to pile into the ponds below. My little cousin, his younger brother, decided that he wanted to take dip, too and as my uncle was helping him into the water, he slipped and fell in as well. We couldn’t stop laughing. It was just too funny.

After a harrowing ride back into the city, we stopped off at the last temple, Banteay Srei. After more than 12 hours exploring temples, I was too tired to appreciate what I was seeing so I just wandered with everyone else. The carvings were much clearer and well preserved but after seeing the same things for two days, I just didn’t care anymore. I was exhausted.

We stopped off at the cultural center on our way back to the city and I bought us all tickets to get in. My aunts and uncles protested, since they thought the prices were too outrageous but I insisted. We had come all this way so we should all go. We wandered the area, watching the dancers, exploring the local museum and wax museum but by that time, we were too tired to really care. I have to admit, I fell asleep during one of the dances and by then, we had all had enough. We headed back to the guesthouse where many of us just hung out for the next couple of hours. After buying the bus tickets that would take us home, we went out for dinner and then headed back to the guesthouse. I escaped the kids, who did not sleep the entire day and yet had enough energy to pester us all, and went to hang out with my cousin. I fell asleep watching TV. I woke up repeatedly during the night, mostly because of all of the naps that I took that day. It was fun, but definitely exhausting.


Day 9: July 7th, Monday Back to the City, Long Bus Rides and Screaming Children

The next day, we got ready and headed back to the city. The bus ride was long and arduous. My little cousins are some of the most temperamental and high maintenance kids that I have ever met. Yup, that’s family. I tried to sleep as often as I could, often resting on my cousin, who sat next to me. I did feel bad for him but I was trying to get comfortable, so he got jostled and poked a lot. After a six hour journey, we were finally in the city where we all headed to my cousin’s house. It was about 1:30pm when we arrived, since we left at 7:00am. My cousins and I hung out, taking naps throughout the rest of the day before finally giving up and sleeping. It has been a long, exhausting week.


Day 10: July 8th, Tuesday Relaxing in the City

I’ve spent today sitting around, relaxing in the city. This morning, my uncle took me for a ride through the city as he worked. It was fun but over far too soon. I spent the rest of the day, sitting by the baby’s hammock, catching up on writing, reading, and watching Eastern Promises. That is one bloody movie. So that has been my day. My cousin called and said that he’d pick me up after 6:00pm so that we could go out. We’ll see about that. So here I sit and finish my movie. It’s been crazy thus far and pretty gruesome. I liked it. =D